FRIDAY

5 p.m. - Take a walk or pedal a bike back in time in Beijing's disappearing hutong alleyways for a glimpse into the sleepy Yuan Dynasty (1271-1368) life the city knew when it became a capital around 1283.

A maze of car-less, mostly Ming (1368-1644) and Qing (1644-1911) dynasty hutong lie to the north and south of the central Forbidden City, and around nearby Houhai's three picturesque lakes. Wandering is the best option, as the sometimes nameless alleys are too small to be on maps.

7 p.m. - Rest under shady willow trees, or in a lakeside cafe or bar such as No Name. Said to be Houhai's first bar, it has a range of strong Vietnamese, Irish and other iced coffees and snacks. (Tel: 6618 6061) Across the lake and down another hutong its sister restaurant, No Name Yunnan Restaurant, has a rooftop terrace and South China specialities.

In the photograph: Hutong alleyways in Beijing

Photograph: Getty Images